Photo by Eliza Billingham
Mapo tofu at Gordy’s Szechuan Cafe on 30th Street in Spokane.
this is Inlander‘s year-long project, Around the World in 80 Plates, seeks out 80 foods and drinks that represent 80 different places in the Spokane area. Read an introduction to the project here.
Number of dishes/seats: 35
ohh. This is what is meant by “paralyzing effect.” Well, this is fun.
No, seriously, this is really fun.
My heat tolerance is truly at the lowest level — the homemade salsa they serve with chips at Mexican restaurants is more than enough for me — so I was scared to order anything from the “Entrees – Spicy” section of the menu at Gordy’s Szechuan Cafe.
But I did it for the sake of journalism. For you. For my loyal readers. For a public that deserves it. Maybe, just a little, for my own pride.
Either way, as an adult, I ordered Mapo Tofu, one of the most famous dishes of Sichuan cuisine.
Sichuan is a province in southwestern China about the size of Spain, known throughout the world for its cuisine, especially its spicy chillies and the rare “mouth numbing” Sichuan peppercorns. The berry of the peppercorn is actually a fruit of the Fraxinaceae family, which belongs to the citrus family. Sichuan peppercorns are usually pink in colour (though sometimes green) and have a flavour closer to citrus than common black peppercorns.
Harvesting the berries, removing the seeds and drying them is a very laborious process, but peppercorns are so valuable to the region and its cuisine that abandoning the task is unthinkable.
Sichuan pepper contains a chemical called hydroxy-alpha-sanshool, which isn’t pleasant to the tongue, but studies have shown that it stimulates the tongue’s touch receptors. Just as capsaicin, the compound in the world’s hottest chili peppers, makes your tongue tingle without actually being hot, hydroxy-alpha-sanshool makes your tongue and lips feel like they’re being touched or even vibrating, even after you’ve chewed and swallowed your food.
I I took a bite of the mapo tofu with trepidation. It was soft like custard, flavored with shredded rich pork and dripping with a rich, spicy sauce. My first impression? This is so deliciousIt was much more vibrant than I expected and unlike any Chinese food I’d ever had, and, as I expected, the spice didn’t make my nose run, sweat or cry.
Photo by Eliza Billingham
Custard-flavored soft tofu bathed in pork and pepper sauce.
So I started to eat a second bite, then a third. Finally the heat caught up with me. But it wasn’t overpowering. I wanted more. I was feeling adventurous, so I combined the savory sauce with some rice I had saved for emergencies.
And then I started to feel it: a tingling sensation. It was as if someone was spreading a velvet blanket over my mouth or massaging my lips with a teeny tiny cotton swab. It wasn’t painful at all like the heat of a chili pepper can be (at least for a mortal like me). It was as if all my taste buds were doing a little dance of joy, or the cells on my lips were organized like fans in a football stadium for the tiniest, most minute waves.
I still don’t understand why they consider it a “numbing” effect, but later I read that the tingling sensation masks the heat of the chili so you can eat spicier foods, and I think Gordy’s tones down the heat of their chili for white wimps like me.
But overall, my first experience trying a spicy side dish from this menu was a great success. I’m grateful for the hydroxy-alpha-sanshool. The numbness, tingling, or whatever you want to call it, is actually enjoyable and not the same tingling sensation that comes with chili peppers. My only complaint is that I wish the spiciness lasted longer. I ate my dish much quicker than expected, and the spiciness wore off within minutes of finishing it.
So consider this a sign to order something risky. I hope my gonzo journalism continues to be this good. But this is not an audition to be the next host. HotI know my limitations.
Need ideas for your next meal? Try cooking a traditional dish from your hometown. Check out 80 Plates for tips and ideas. [email protected].
