- I ate at Chez Rami Louis in Paris, a restaurant that had just been bought by the richest man in Europe.
- The bistro’s famous $130 roast chicken was excellent and the portions were generous.
- The food was good and I wasn’t upset that the meal was 272 euros (just under $300).
Having lived in Paris for 15 years, I have passed by the red checked curtains of Chez L’Ami Louis many times.
For a long time, I hesitated to go in because of the exorbitant prices displayed on the menu at the entrance, but it’s no secret that this century-old favorite in the Haut Marais district is one of the most famous bistros in the city.
Celebrities such as Bill Clinton, David Beckham and Francis Ford Coppola are said to have visited the restaurant. Keanu Reevesand Brad Pitt.
Given that reputation, it may not have been surprising that Europe’s richest man, LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, bought a majority stake in the bistro in June. Financial details of the deal were not disclosed.
In a statement, LVMH, the French luxury goods conglomerate that owns Louis Vuitton and other famous brands, called Chez Lami Louis “a destination for those seeking an authentic culinary experience in the capital.”
Still, the bistro has notoriously mixed reviews, with just 3.5 stars on Yelp and many criticizing its prices for being too high.
Either way, I wanted to try Chez L’Ami Louis and see what my impressions were.
It was easier to book directly than by phone.
The restaurant only has about 12 tables, so I found it best to make a reservation if you want to have dinner here.
You can’t book online and we tried to book over the phone but couldn’t (read many reviews it seems like it’s hard to get bistro staff on the phone).
I live nearby so I tried my luck and visited on a Wednesday morning in late June. Even before I was seated for lunch, the atmosphere at Chez L’Ami Louis looked inviting.
Upon entering the pre-war space, we were greeted by crates of fresh fruit and vegetables sitting on vintage wooden tables as a staff of six tried to revitalize the bistro after a two-day closure (they are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays).
I walked over to the back counter where a solemn-looking man asked how I could help him, and I replied in French, “A table for two, please.”
He consulted his notebook and offered suggestions for dinner tables for the following week, and I gladly booked a table for two on Sunday evening.
I almost couldn’t get a reservation, but luckily
My husband and I arrived Chez L‘On the night of our dinner date, Ami Louis arrived at 8pm.
The waitstaff was in the middle of their nightly plating, but I slipped quietly through the 12 bustling tables to announce my arrival to my host.
After glancing at the reservation list, he looked up at me, shook his head, and asked if I had called yesterday to confirm the seating, which left me disappointed.
There was a misunderstanding when booking. I I was waiting for a confirmation call. theyThis is standard practice at many top restaurants.
Perhaps the manager was touched by my stunned, hopeless look, or perhaps it was just luck: he told us to come back at 9 p.m.
When we returned, all eyes were on us.
After a convivial neighbourhood aperitif, we received curious looks from diners preparing to get to our next course. As the corner was cleared and we sat down at a table draped with a salmon-coloured cloth, I smiled sweetly.
Oval mirrors line the brown lacquered walls, the whimsical black-and-white tiled floor makes a statement, and near the open kitchen, baskets full of ripe fruit look like they’re being prepared for a lavish banquet.
A waiter in a white button-down shirt and black tie brought us menus and asked if we preferred sparkling or still water.
The price was still a bit too high
I thought about ordering the fish of the day, but the price seemed too high at 150 euros (about $163), and I wasn’t sure if I would actually enjoy it.
Cote de Boeuf is (Rib steak) 205 euros for two is more affordable? I’m not sure. I’ve seen fish and meat dishes cheaper, even in Michelin star restaurants.
We ordered the specialty escargot (50 euros).) We then ordered roast chicken (apparently priced at 120 euros for two) and were given the wine list.
I received a leather-bound book filled with a wide selection of wines from all over the country.
The bistro’s extensive wine cellar seems to contain thousands of bottles; house wine is 25 euros. Instead of a glass we ordered a half bottle of Bordeaux for €65, which seemed like a bargain.
An international crew of locals and tourists surrounded us.
Enjoy a tall pile of toasted baguettes and slightly salty demi-salt cheese. I buttered myself up and surveyed the bustling space to discover a room full of faces, local and foreign.
At a nearby table sat a fashion model featured in a campaign for the Parisian brand I happened to be wearing, and the women sitting next to me were from Toronto and eager to share their stories of a great meal.
Across from us sat a group of French patrons, engaged in animated conversation with the person who seemed to run the bistro.
The first dish was served. Every bite was delicious, with plenty of butter.
Our expectations and appetites were building as trays overflowing with grilled meats and roast chicken passed overhead.
Finally, the escargot arrived, smothered in butter and garlic, and we savored each of the 12 juicy snails.
Once the bread and butter had been deftly cleared away and the silverware replenished, the main act began.
It quickly became clear why roast chicken is the bistro’s specialty.
After a few tastes of the roast chicken, it was taken apart and brought back along with a towering plate of shoestring fries.
After one bite, my husband said, “This is the best roast chicken I’ve ever eaten.”
I nodded in agreement as I stuffed my mouth full of tender wood-roasted chicken and couldn’t help but drizzle my fries in the rich gravy made from goose fat and butter.
By the time we finished our second plate of chicken (the total amount was enough for a family of four), my husband quite rightly described the meal as “traditional French excess.”
Perhaps it’s this excess that makes the restaurant worthy of elite status.
I wish I had left more room in my stomach for dessert.
We were full after the meal and could see why the light triple serving of seasonal red fruit and fresh whipped cream (26 euros) was a popular dessert.
However, tempted by chocolate, we ordered the rich Gâteau au Chocolat (25 euros) and were not surprised by how generous the portion was – more than enough for two people.
The chocolate cake was creamy, rich and very sweet. It was easy to eat and I especially liked the crispy texture of the bottom layer.
The meal cost me nearly 300 euros, but I left with a smile on my face.
Without clearing our dessert plates, we paid the bill, totalling 272 euros, and left the still-bustling bistro with smiles on our faces and full stomachs.
Perhaps Arnault was so enthralled by his own dining experience at Chez Rami Louis that he was inspired to add the bistro to his portfolio.
However, I would definitely recommend Chez L’Ami Louis to anyone looking for an authentic French bistro experience. you Make sure to confirm your booking, dine with foodies and don’t forget to ask for a doggy bag.
