Chicken Biryani at Royal Restaurant & Bar in New York’s Carle Place.
Marko Postigo Strel, NPR
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Sunday’s match between Pakistan and India may be the most anticipated match of the Cricket World Cup. The two countries have a fierce rivalry and their cricket teams rarely meet. But there’s one thing fans of both nations agree on: there’s no better food to have at a cricket game than biryani, a rice dish popular across the Indian subcontinent. Different cultures prepare biryani differently, but Indian restaurants around the World Cup Stadium in East Meadow, New York, serve a variety of styles.
The three biryani shops closest to the stadium at Eisenhower Park offer halal meat, restricted beef options and a variety of vegetarian dishes, but biryani is the most popular item on the menu at all three restaurants.
Fans arrive to watch the Cricket World Cup match between Sri Lanka and South Africa at the Nassau County International Cricket Stadium in Eisenhower Park, New York, on June 3.
Marko Postigo Strel, NPR
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Biryani’s association with cricket is in part due to the sport’s format. The oldest cricket matches last five days, with fans eating multiple meals from early morning until late evening; breaks during the match are even named after mealtimes. The World Cup format is much shorter, about the length of a baseball game. But in all forms of cricket, there is a long break before each play — just enough time to scoop meat, rice, yogurt and other condiments into spoons.
There are over 35 varieties of biryani in the Indian subcontinent, with each city offering a different flavour. Like cricket, the rivalry between India and Pakistan is played out over biryani. Vegetarian biryani is popular in India, with chicken and mutton also popular, but not beef, which most Hindus shun. In Pakistan, meat biryani is more common, I never have Pork is forbidden in Islam.
Sahar’s Kitchen and Chai — Karachi Style
Mohammed Rehman, owner of Saha’s Kitchen & Chai, and his chicken biryani at Saha’s Kitchen & Chai in East Meadow, New York, on June 4.
Marko Postigo Strel, NPR
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Desi restaurants in East Meadow cater to both Hindu and Muslim clientele, and at Sahar’s Kitchen and Chai, Mohammed Rehman, who comes from a Bangladeshi family, serves Karachi-style biryani with raita, a yogurt sauce that’s a quintessential Pakistani flavour.
Rehman loves watching cricket while eating biryani. “Biryani is quick and filling,” he says, explaining about biryani from different subcontinents. “Pakistani biryani is drier and has a lot of sauce on top. Indian biryani is spicy. Bangladeshi biryani has a strong curry flavour.”
The Royale — Biryani Variety
Amrinder Singh, owner of Royal Restaurant & Bar in Carle Place, New York, on June 4.
Marko Postigo Strel, NPR
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Although Royal Restaurant & Bar serves alcohol and meat dishes, that doesn’t stop devout Muslims and vegetarian Hindus from dining there. For Royal’s owner, Amrinder Singh, this is a reflection of India’s diversity. “We’re very respectful of all religions and ethnicities,” he says, adding that the restaurant prepares all its dishes in the same place but is happy to adapt recipes to suit customers’ needs.
The subcontinent’s diversity is reflected in the menu at Royale, which also offers shrimp and cheese biryani, and is a popular spot for authentic Indian biryani in Hyderabad.
Spices and curry — loved by everyone for years
Naveed Haroon, co-owner of Spice & Curry Kabab & Grill in East Meadow, and the restaurant’s chicken biryani on June 3.
Marko Postigo Strel, NPR
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Our East Meadow biryani journey ends at the oldest Indian restaurant in the area, Spice & Curry Kabab & Grill. Though Spice & Curry describes itself as a Pakistani restaurant, you won’t find beef biryani on the menu. “Beef biryani is not that common,” says Spice & Curry. “We make it to order, and we also customize vegetarian options, including chana.” [chickpea] “Biryani,” says owner Naveed Haroon.
Guests from both India and Pakistan attend a cricket screening, with plenty of biryani, both royal and spice and curry. There is plenty of Indian-Pakistani banter, but not a trace of hostility. “It’s all about politics. There is a large Indian and Pakistani population in Nassau County and they get along well.” Haroun says:
The Royale Restaurant & Bar on June 4th.
Marko Postigo Strel, NPR
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Royale owner Amrinder Singh echoed the sentiment, citing the example of a former roommate from Pakistan: “He lives in Virginia. He comes to see me and I come to see him. The feeling is the same.”
Singh and Haroon agree that the US’s co-hosting of the Cricket World Cup will significantly boost the popularity of cricket in the US, and with it, biryani, to a wider audience. But are they ready to cater to a large and diverse clientele? The answer can be found in Spice & Curry’s kitchen, where chefs show how the restaurant’s biryani is made.
First, oil is DaigIn a big pot, add dried onions and fresh tomato puree followed by few spices like red chilli powder, turmeric powder, jeera coriander etc. Once the sauce is ready, add basmati rice. You can add meat and vegetables separately to make different biryanis.
On June 4, cricket will be shown on television in the lobby of the Holiday Inn Hotel, adjacent to Royal Restaurant & Bar.
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Customers may be fans of the cricket team or biryani, but they are united by their love for both. “Food unites love. Whatever the rivalry on the field, they will enjoy the food when they come back,” Singh said.
